This is the manic magic house that Penn
built
By Marco R. della Cava, USA TODAY
LAS VEGAS — Enter at your own psychic peril.
That's the message to trick-or-treaters as they
come upon the desert lair of magician and writer Penn Jillette.
Inside are sights so outrageous as to leave libertines breathless
with glee and the moralistic begging for CPR.
Sitting on 12 hardscrabble acres, the sprawling
6,000-square-foot playpen — nicknamed The Slammer by Jillette, the
larger half of the Penn & Teller duo — is stocked with erotic
art, freak-show collectibles and a ubiquitous logo that spells out
"No God."
And did we mention the bondage room off the
master suite?
"It's the house of a 12-year-old with a lot of
money," deadpans Jillette.
But that's far too facile, like calling
Einstein a foreign nerd with a few wacky ideas. In fact, 6-foot-6
Jillette, 49, who along with the mono-named Teller has made a
lucrative career of combining magic with the macabre, is a lumbering
contradiction:
• Hard-core atheist, but also a talented bass
player who worships the power of bebop.
• Loves having his place stuffed with raucous
friends but has never once lost himself in drugs or alcohol.
• Partial to art that borders on the
pornographic, and yet his prized possession is a shelf-buckling
20-volume Oxford English Dictionary that comes in handy for writing
New York Times op-ed pieces and novels such as
Sock.
In short: He's a demented genius, the love
child of the Marquis de Sade and a Jeopardy! champ.
"This is where I spend 80% of my time," says
Jillette, inside a computer-centric office crammed with personal
effects.
On the wall is a Three Stooges photo ("I love
this because they're actually all so relaxed in it," says Jillette)
next to a shot of a smiling elderly woman, his late mother. ("I'm a
real momma's boy," he adds.)
There's a stand-up bass next to some jazz sheet
music, a functioning urinal and poster featuring The Amazing Randi,
the famed debunker and Jillette's hero.
He gazes into the hazy distance.
"I used to be able to see the (Las Vegas) Strip
from here, before the city got totally built up," he says.
The magician and his silent partner — the
one-named Teller lives a mile away in an expansive modernist retreat
built into a mountainside — moved to Las Vegas a decade ago, after a
hit run on Broadway led to a steady gig at this city's Rio All-Suite
Hotel & Casino. Jillette quickly found a small house on the edge
of town and immediately bought up a dozen surrounding acres.
"I told a friend, 'Ijust want some space so
some neighborhood wacko doesn't get mad and get up in my face,' "
says Jillette. "And my friend says, 'Ah, you are the
neighborhood wacko.' "
Cue a proud grin.
Jillette commissioned another buddy, Colin
Summers, then fresh out of architecture school, to design a house
around the original 1978 A-frame. "He got a dream job right out of
school, and I got someone who really knew me," says Jillette, adding
that Summers lived on-site for nine months for inspiration.
The house remains a work in progress. A new
garage is going up to house his three "stripper pink"-colored Minis,
and there are plans to demolish the old A-frame section
entirely.
As it stands today, The Slammer is a surreal
Cubist vision in concrete, stucco and steel. Jillette's
aforementioned office sits in a silo-like structure, from which
radiate two wings that look like a jumble of multicolored boxes.
Inside, there are enough fascinating and odd
touches to fill this entire newspaper. Scanning some of the
headlines:
•Guests Line Up for Mug Shots. All
visitors must stand against a height chart worthy of a police
station and have their digital picture taken. (It's right next to
the foyer's prison-issue, stainless-steel bathroom.) The photo
shoots over to a lobby computer, which constantly cycles through the
3,000-plus visitors so far, some of them topless.
•Penn Jillette: The New Howard Hughes.
The artist gleefully says he never has to leave his sprawling
compound, which includes a gym, a beanbag-chair-filled home theater
and a state-of-the-art recording studio. "Friends come out for weeks
at a time, to write, relax, whatever," he says. "I still love New
York, and they bring a bit of the city here to me."
OK, OK, we're getting there.
To the bondage room, Robin. Just off Jillette's
leopard-themed bedroom (which he shares with his privacy-preferring
girlfriend) is a mirrored walk-in closet whose centerpiece is a
harness suspended from the ceiling. There are some whips, and few
restraints and a one-way mirror to check for intruders.
"Actually," he adds, "there are a few rooms
here I really can't show you at all."
Is he serious? Who knows. But this is a man who
shows off jars of "pickled fetuses" bought froman old freak show,
though Jillette staffers later insist they aren't real.
Moving right along and into the blessed
sunshine. In the multicolored Astroturf backyard, Jillette points to
a koi pond shaped like a goldfish cracker. ("We scanned a cracker,
so it's one specific goldfish treat," he says with pride.)
That's next to an 80-foot lap pool, which is
near a hot tub. This spa has one strange feature and ... here we go
again. Look carefully and you see one water jet is located very
close to where someone would sit down.
At the moment, anyone leaving Jillette's pad on
sensory overload is free to scurry off into the desert to nurse
their emotional wounds. But that won't last long. Jillette escorts a
visitor out to his property's driveway, where a chain-link fence
will soon be joined by two large gates, forming a box.
What gives? "Every car that pulls up will get
let through the first gate, but then it'll be held there between the
two shut gates. And that's when we'll have gigantic floodlights
blast the car, like something out of CSI." A basso giggle.
"Should be pretty funny."
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